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Technics SL-10 Deconstruction

Step by step guide to taking SL10 record deck apart to troubleshoot problems, access the fuses, remove the tonearm etc.

This is a basic guide to demonstrate onekana being applied to product servicing or any technical or DIY project. It does not give advice on the more esoteric arts of changing capacitors or electrical components. This is a shared guide for those skilled in the above arts to comment and advise. Feel free to comment, add your own interactive mark up for tips and tricks to keep this iconic product working up to date and smoothly.


   

Mark Up 1 to 49 of 49

  • Before dismantling:
    Make sure you have switched the unit off.
  • Detach from the mains.
  • And remove your stylus, or moving coil c...
  • Lid Hinge
    Angling the lid back gently pull the base of the lid hinge towards you to release the lid hinge from the main deck body.
  • Lid Screws
    There are 12 screws you need to unscrew to release the lid.
  • Lid Clamp Release Catch
    There is a metal disk (next image) that physically impedes the clamp from releasing. You can ease this off gently but firmly when removing the lid. When re-attaching the lid, make sure the clamp is pushed back, or there will be a grinding noise when turning once reassembled.
  • Safety on/off switch
    There is a safety on off switch that turns the platter off when the lid is opened. If this is not in place correctly the platter will not turn. Watch for this when reassembling.
  • Button Control Cables
    Remove this to detach or remove circuit board (see next image)
  • Earthed Transistor
    Unscrew this to detach or remove circuit board (see next image)
  • Stop / Repeat / Return cabling
    You will also need to detach this to access behind the circuit board.
  • Arm Belt
    If the arm is not traversing properly, or not at all, the usual solution is to change the arm belt.
  • Arm Pole
    If this has been 'greased' best thing is to remove it. I have used WD40 dry PTFE lubrication.
  • Circuit Board Screw
    Despite the additional holes for screws, only one is used to hold the circuit board in place.
  • Transistor Base
  • Button control cabling and socket
  • Socket for Stop / Return / Repeat
  • Arm Pulley Clip Mechanism
  • Offset Angle Adjustment Screw
  • And as viewed from above.
  • (96) Arm Transit Lock
  • (97) Transit Lock Spacer
  • (98) Lock Support
  • (99) Operating Spacer
  • (100) Arm Base, Cover
  • (101) Arm Plate
  • (102) Plunge Assist
  • (103) Spring
  • (104) ?
  • (105) ?
  • (106) Connector, Arm
  • (107) Connector, Phono
  • (90) Tonearm
  • (91) Cartridge
  • (92)
  • (93)
  • (94)
  • (95)
  • Screw Caps (four)
    Once you have removed the platter, prise off the rubber caps with a screwdriver to then unscrew the platter support base.
  • The Platter Bearing
    This shows the bearing after the captive nut has been removed ...
  • Platter Bearing Nutt
    Unscrew the bearing nutt that fixes the bearing in place.
  • Bearing 'Film'
    There is a transparent 'film" that you might miss that you need to remove to access the screw lift holes.
  • Lid Screw for lifting platter
    Use two of the longer screws from the lid removed earlier to act as platter "lifts" to protect the bearing when lifting off.
  • Copper Earthing Collar
    Remove this screw and slide out the earthing collar.
  • Inner Base Screws
    Then remove the other inner base screws to access the motor unit circuit board, power supply and fuses.
  • Moving Coil Step Up Case Screws
    To access the Moving Coil step up circuits you need to remove these screws.
  • Moving Coil Step Up Case Screw
  • Moving Coil Step Up Case Screw
  • Moving Coil Step Up Case Screw
  • Tonearm Cable Connector
    Finally this shows the tonearm cable connecting to the circuitboard handling moving magnet and moving coil cartridges.

Before dismantling:

Make sure you have switched the unit off.

Detach from the mains.

And remove your stylus, or moving coil cartridge!

Lid Hinge

Angling the lid back gently pull the base of the lid hinge towards you to release the lid hinge from the main deck body.

Lid Screws

There are 12 screws you need to unscrew to release the lid.

Lid Clamp Release Catch

There is a metal disk (next image) that physically impedes the clamp from releasing. You can ease this off gently but firmly when removing the lid. When re-attaching the lid, make sure the clamp is pushed back, or there will be a grinding noise when turning once reassembled.

Safety on/off switch

There is a safety on off switch that turns the platter off when the lid is opened. If this is not in place correctly the platter will not turn. Watch for this when reassembling.

Button Control Cables

Remove this to detach or remove circuit board (see next image)

Earthed Transistor

Unscrew this to detach or remove circuit board (see next image)

Stop / Repeat / Return cabling

You will also need to detach this to access behind the circuit board.

Arm Belt

If the arm is not traversing properly, or not at all, the usual solution is to change the arm belt.

Arm Pole

If this has been 'greased' best thing is to remove it. I have used WD40 dry PTFE lubrication.

Circuit Board Screw

Despite the additional holes for screws, only one is used to hold the circuit board in place.

Transistor Base

Button control cabling and socket

Socket for Stop / Return / Repeat

Arm Pulley Clip Mechanism

Offset Angle Adjustment Screw

And as viewed from above.

(96) Arm Transit Lock

(97) Transit Lock Spacer

(98) Lock Support

(99) Operating Spacer

(100) Arm Base, Cover

(101) Arm Plate

(102) Plunge Assist

(103) Spring

(104) ?

(105) ?

(106) Connector, Arm

(107) Connector, Phono

(90) Tonearm

(91) Cartridge

(92)

(93)

(94)

(95)

Screw Caps (four)

Once you have removed the platter, prise off the rubber caps with a screwdriver to then unscrew the platter support base.

The Platter Bearing

This shows the bearing after the captive nut has been removed ...

Platter Bearing Nutt

Unscrew the bearing nutt that fixes the bearing in place.

Bearing 'Film'

There is a transparent 'film" that you might miss that you need to remove to access the screw lift holes.

Lid Screw for lifting platter

Use two of the longer screws from the lid removed earlier to act as platter "lifts" to protect the bearing when lifting off.

Copper Earthing Collar

Remove this screw and slide out the earthing collar.

Inner Base Screws

Then remove the other inner base screws to access the motor unit circuit board, power supply and fuses.

Moving Coil Step Up Case Screws

To access the Moving Coil step up circuits you need to remove these screws.

Moving Coil Step Up Case Screw

Moving Coil Step Up Case Screw

Moving Coil Step Up Case Screw

Tonearm Cable Connector

Finally this shows the tonearm cable connecting to the circuitboard handling moving magnet and moving coil cartridges.

Chapters:

Latest update: 09.02.2018 - Thank you all "feedbackers"...

All Comments & Questions about Technics SL-10 Deconstruction


  • Simon Meneely 12/12/2016 20:04:51

    test comment

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