Technics SL-10 Deconstruction

Mark Up 1 to 49 of 49

• Before dismantling:
  Make sure you have switched the unit off.
• Detach from the mains.
• And remove your stylus, or moving coil c...
• Lid Hinge
  Angling the lid back gently pull the base of the lid hinge towards you to release the lid hinge from the main deck body.
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  Lid Screws
  There are 12 screws you need to unscrew to release the lid.
• Lid Clamp Release Catch
  There is a metal disk (next image) that physically impedes the clamp from releasing. You can ease this off gently but firmly when removing the lid. When re-attaching the lid, make sure the clamp is pushed back, or there will be a grinding noise when turning once reassembled.
• Safety on/off switch
  There is a safety on off switch that turns the platter off when the lid is opened. If this is not in place correctly the platter will not turn. Watch for this when reassembling.
• Button Control Cables
  Remove this to detach or remove circuit board (see next image)
• Earthed Transistor
  Unscrew this to detach or remove circuit board (see next image)
• Stop / Repeat / Return cabling
  You will also need to detach this to access behind the circuit board.
• Arm Belt
  If the arm is not traversing properly, or not at all, the usual solution is to change the arm belt.
• Arm Pole
  If this has been 'greased' best thing is to remove it. I have used WD40 dry PTFE lubrication.
• Circuit Board Screw
  Despite the additional holes for screws, only one is used to hold the circuit board in place.
• Transistor Base
• Button control cabling and socket
• Socket for Stop / Return / Repeat
• Arm Pulley Clip Mechanism
• Offset Angle Adjustment Screw
• And as viewed from above.
• (96) Arm Transit Lock
• (97) Transit Lock Spacer
• (98) Lock Support
• (99) Operating Spacer
• (100) Arm Base, Cover
• (101) Arm Plate
• (102) Plunge Assist
• (103) Spring
• (104) ?
• (105) ?
• (106) Connector, Arm
• (107) Connector, Phono
• (90) Tonearm
• (91) Cartridge
• (92)
• (93)
• (94)
• (95)
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  Screw Caps (four)
  Once you have removed the platter, prise off the rubber caps with a screwdriver to then unscrew the platter support base.
• The Platter Bearing
  This shows the bearing after the captive nut has been removed ...
• Platter Bearing Nutt
  Unscrew the bearing nutt that fixes the bearing in place.
• Bearing 'Film'
  There is a transparent 'film" that you might miss that you need to remove to access the screw lift holes.
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  Lid Screw for lifting platter
  Use two of the longer screws from the lid removed earlier to act as platter "lifts" to protect the bearing when lifting off.
• Copper Earthing Collar
  Remove this screw and slide out the earthing collar.
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  Inner Base Screws
  Then remove the other inner base screws to access the motor unit circuit board, power supply and fuses.
• Moving Coil Step Up Case Screws
  To access the Moving Coil step up circuits you need to remove these screws.
• Moving Coil Step Up Case Screw
• Moving Coil Step Up Case Screw
• Moving Coil Step Up Case Screw
• Tonearm Cable Connector
  Finally this shows the tonearm cable connecting to the circuitboard handling moving magnet and moving coil cartridges.